How do I change the background colour, on each side of my page - from a standard light blue(cyan) to white or grey?

In your stylesheet.css you can adjust the overall background color by setting the body tag:

body {
    margin: 0;
    font-family: verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif;
    font-size: 62.5%;
    color: #000000;
    background-color: #fff; /* this is white */
/* background-color:#ccc; this is gray */
    }
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